After Key West, we headed up the Gulf Coast to Ft. Myers. We spent an afternoon touring nearby Sanibel and Captiva Islands. These are very exclusive islands -- so restrictive that they charge six dollars just to cross the causeway to get onto the islands! But we scraped up enough loose change to rift raft our way into their midst's. The islands are actually very nice with many public beaches and a large wildlife preserve.
Back in Ft. Myers, we toured the winter homes of Thomas Edison and Henry Ford who were friends as well as next door neighbors when in Florida. While the homes were relatively modest for two such wealthy and famous men, the grounds (actually a botanic garden) were the real attraction. There are over 1,000 varieties of plants imported from around the world. Edison was interested in the many by-products from the plants which he used in his scientific investigations. There is a museum on the grounds which displays samples of Edison's inventions and a selection of Edison and Ford artifacts.
Next we made our way to the Florida Panhandle and the charming but gritty fishing village of Apalachicola. We'd been watching the progress of the oil slick from the oil rig explosion off the coast of Louisiana in April. Luckily, it had not affected the Florida coast or fishing waters yet. Apalach, as it is known locally, provides 10 percent of the nation's oysters from over 7,000 acres of oyster beds. Although neither of us could be considered oyster aficionados, we certainly enjoyed the ones we tried at Boss Oyster restaurant; they were sweet and succulent with just enough briny flavor to let you know you were enjoying them right at the source. If you're a little squeamish about raw oysters, they also serve them 29 other ways. Additionally, they have a large variety of fish, scallops and shrimp dishes. The seafood we had here was the freshest we've tasted so far.
NOTE: See the end of this posting for a video of how to shuck an oyster.
A little further up the coast we stopped at the Destin / Ft. Walton Beach area. The beaches in this area are some of our favorites. With just the right amount of surf, crystal clear water and soft, sugar-white sand, we feel that these are some of the best beaches on the Gulf Coast.
At the Pensacola Naval Station, we toured the National Naval Aviation Museum. The museum traces the history of naval aviation from its beginnings to the present. There are over 150 carefully restored historic aircraft. Exhibits range from a replica of a World War II aircraft carrier island and flight deck to a Top Gun flight simulator.
The biggest attraction may be from March through November when the facility provides a viewing area for the practice sessions of the Navy's Blue Angels; we were fortunate to be present for one of their sessions. Let us say up front that if you have never been fortunate enough to witness a Blue Angels' air show, there is nothing in these words, pictures or videos that will even come close to the experience! It is an awe-inspiring demonstration of training, dedication and pure military muscle that will send shivers down your spine with every pass of the beautiful blue and gold aircraft. The practice session is actually the same routines they perform during their regular air shows. The coolest part is at the end of the show, the children in the audience are invited out to the flight line to wave American flags as the Angels taxi past the viewing area.
NOTE: See the end of this posting for videos of the Blue Angels in flight.
After Pensacola, we drove about an hour west to LA (uh, no actually that's Lower Alabama). We stopped for lunch in Fairhope, AL, a small, pretty town on the east side of Mobile Bay (and boyhood home of Jimmy Buffett). The town center is so compact and organized that it appears almost Disney-esque. Intersections are decked out with flowers and hanging baskets and the locals actually smile and say "Hi" as they pass you on the street.
Later in the day as we were driving along the coast in Gulf Shores, we saw our first evidence of the work to contain the advancing oil spill. We saw two crews in hazard suits working at different inlets off the beach putting out sandbags and boons to protect the bays and estuaries. The local news had reports of some tar balls washing ashore. What they showed wasn't the sticky, gooey mess you would expect; it actually looked more like a chocolate brownie. In our walks and play time along the beaches, however, we didn't see anything -- not even the underwater crab that briefly clamped onto one of Cindy's toes! (Yes, that probably was the screaming you heard on Thursday afternoon.) It was a good thing this was our last day at the beach because after the "crab incident", that was our last day at the beach.
We managed to get in a couple more rounds of golf at a local course. The weather, while only in the mid-80s, had a humidity level around 90% -- very high for two people used to the arid desert climate. Luckily, we were able to cool off afterwards at one of our favorite places -- Lulu's. Lulu is Lucy Buffett (Jimmy's "Crazy Sista"). Now we know we've mentioned the Buffett family a few times, but before you think we're obsessed with (or worse yet stalking) them, its just because they are from a Gulf Coast family. Anyway, Lulu's is a great casual, open-air restaurant overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway. Its a fun place with live music most nights. On one visit, the entertainment was Brent Burns, a singer who is a little bit Jimmy Buffett (OK, there we go again) and a little bit Ray Stevens. Check out the video of one of his songs on You Tube (partially filmed at Lulu's and on the beach at Gulf Shores):
VIDEOS
Two of the Blue Angels' Maneuvers
"Welcome Back"
Oyster Shucking
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